Being in contact with the water, it feels calm. Once you’re there, the peacefulness of the motion of the ocean is really calming for your spirit. If you feel like you are doing an adrenaline sport, it’s that too—but only when you grab the wave, not the whole time. The rest of the time you have to be patient to wait for your wave, because some of the waves choose you. You can choose the wave, but normally it’s the wave that’s been waiting on the ocean looking for you.
—Carlos form Puerto Escondido
Interview by Eric, Ari, Leif, and Jack